Friday, April 26, 2013


In Search of the CHARANGO

My journey began in Ira’s Raleigh, NC backyard. Will Kimbrough was playing his guitar, singing his songs and entertaining the crowd but something was missing. We were entertained, we were moved, we were drunk. Will played so hard and with such enthusiasm that he eventually had to take a break. This is when I asked him, “Will, what is missing in your life? What do you need that will fill that hole?” His answer…..”If I only had a Charango.” What in the world is a Charango? Does it grow on trees? Does it crawl on the ground? Does it fly like a bird? Does it sing? Can it keep you warm? The questions kept on coming.

Will simply replied, “It is an instrument. It is much like a Ukulele but better.
It is better because it has more strings, it comes from Bolivia or Peru and it makes a sound like nothing you have ever heard.” But Will couldn’t find one because he was in Raleigh and the Charango and a piece of his heart was in Peru or Bolivia in a Charango maker’s shop. So I said to him, “Will my friend, I can help you fill the emptiness you are feeling. It just so happens that I am going to Peru. I will get that Charango and bring it back to you because I see that it will make you happy.”
Peru is a long way from Raleigh and it is even farther if you are looking for a Charango in Mexico which is the route I took. My trek took me from Raleigh to Atlanta, Atlanta to Mexico City, Mexico City to Lazaro Cardenas then back to Mexico City. I went to the bodegas looking for the elusive Charango. No one had any idea what I was talking about. I would ask for a Charango and they would hand me a mango. I hand the mango back and say again slowly, ”Charango” because when you speak slowly and loudly to a non-english speaking person they somehow miraculously understand. Then the shopkeeper shook his head and says, “Si, Si SeÑor, Fandango and begins to dance.” 3,000 miles and no Charango. I left.
On to Lima Peru to take up the search only 2,642 miles away. Once in Lima my friend Alex del Azar joined the hunt. If anyone could find what I was looking for he could. Alex speaks Spanish. This is important because I only know how to ask for the baÑo and hope and pray that the person I am asking is willing to take their hands out of their pockets and point. Otherwise I still have a problem. I questioned Alex as to where we could find the elusive Charango. He said, ”Let’s go. I know a guy who knows a guy. That guy will know where to find one.” We walked, we took cabs, we rode the bus. No Charango.  No guy either but we did find his cousin. The guy’s cousin told us that there were no Charangos here but he knew where we could find one. It is not just any Charango but the best Charango and at the best price. He said you must go south to Nazca some 350 miles away. There you will find a man sitting under a tree in the town square next to a statue of the Mother Mary. He will take you to the Charango. Alex said, "We gonna need some help. I gonna call Arturo. He has a Truck. " So Arturo joined in as well.
It took eight hours in a truck to go those 350 miles but we found him. He was right where the guy said he would be. He was asleep. We woke him and told him of our mission. He said, ”I know of what you seek, I have been waiting for you to arrive. I will tell you where to find the Charango but first you must do something for me. South of here about 4 hours drive is a dirt road marked by a blue rock.
Turn down this road and follow it to the sea. When you get there you will find a man he has something very important for me. Get it and bring it back and I will tell you where you can find the Charango.” Off we went to find the blue rock. We took the dirt road and we found the old man. We took from him the object he had for the other man and back we went to Nazca. We delivered the package. “Sir, we did as you asked. Please tell us where we can find this Charango.” In perfect English he said, ”Go back to Lima, go to Miguel’s Music Store. He has plenty of them.” 10 minutes in Miguel’s Music Store and I had a Charango, an instrument bag and an extra set of strings with just enough time to catch my flight home.

The trip is real. Alex is real. The Charango is real. The rest you decide. FYI the trip covered over 10,000 miles.  


This is will with his new Charango. You can hear him play his new Charango at http://www.youtube.com/user/willkimbrough?feature= 

Please enjoy. I do and you will to.