In Search of the CHARANGO
My journey began in Ira’s
Raleigh, NC backyard. Will Kimbrough was playing his guitar, singing his songs
and entertaining the crowd but something was missing. We were entertained, we
were moved, we were drunk. Will played so hard and with such enthusiasm that he
eventually had to take a break. This is when I asked him, “Will, what is
missing in your life? What do you need that will fill that hole?” His
answer…..”If I only had a Charango.” What in the world is a Charango? Does it
grow on trees? Does it crawl on the ground? Does it fly like a bird? Does it
sing? Can it keep you warm? The questions kept on coming.
Peru is
a long way from Raleigh and it is even farther if you are looking for a
Charango in Mexico which is the route I took. My trek took me from Raleigh to
Atlanta, Atlanta to Mexico City, Mexico City to Lazaro Cardenas then back to
Mexico City. I went to the bodegas looking for the elusive Charango. No one had
any idea what I was talking about. I would ask for a Charango and they would
hand me a mango. I hand the mango back and say again slowly, ”Charango” because
when you speak slowly and loudly to a non-english speaking person they somehow
miraculously understand. Then the shopkeeper shook his head and says, “Si, Si
SeÑor, Fandango and begins to
dance.” 3,000 miles and no Charango. I left.
On to
Lima Peru to take up the search only 2,642 miles away. Once in Lima my friend
Alex del Azar joined the hunt. If anyone could find what I was looking for he could. Alex speaks Spanish. This is important because I only know how to ask for the baÑo and hope and pray that the person I
am asking is willing to take their hands out of their pockets and point.
Otherwise I still have a problem. I questioned Alex as to where we could find
the elusive Charango. He said, ”Let’s go. I know a guy who knows a guy. That guy
will know where to find one.” We walked, we took cabs, we rode the bus. No
Charango. No guy either but we did find
his cousin. The guy’s cousin told us that there were no Charangos here but he
knew where we could find one. It is not just any Charango but the best Charango
and at the best price. He said you must go south to Nazca some 350 miles away.
There you will find a man sitting under a tree in the town square next to a
statue of the Mother Mary. He will take you to the Charango. Alex said, "We gonna need some help. I gonna call Arturo. He has a Truck. " So Arturo joined in as well.
It took eight hours in a truck to go
those 350 miles but we found him. He was right where the guy said he would be.
He was asleep. We woke him and told him of our mission. He said, ”I know of
what you seek, I have been waiting for you to arrive. I will tell you where to
find the Charango but first you must do something for me. South of here about 4
hours drive is a dirt road marked by a blue rock.Turn down this road and follow it to the sea. When you get there you will find a man he has something very important for me. Get it and bring it back and I will tell you where you can find the Charango.” Off we went to find the blue rock. We took the dirt road and we found the old man. We took from him the object he had for the other man and back we went to Nazca. We delivered the package. “Sir, we did as you asked. Please tell us where we can find this Charango.” In perfect English he said, ”Go back to Lima, go to Miguel’s Music Store. He has plenty of them.” 10 minutes in Miguel’s Music Store and I had a Charango, an instrument bag and an extra set of strings with just enough time to catch my flight home.
The trip is real. Alex is real. The Charango is real. The rest you decide. FYI the trip covered over 10,000 miles.
This is will with his new Charango. You can hear him play his new Charango at http://www.youtube.com/user/willkimbrough?feature=
Please enjoy. I do and you will to.